It’s almost a laughable understatement to say that Memphis loves its barbecue. Home to the Memphis in May World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest, the city attracts pitmasters from around the world, armed with their signature barbecue recipes, hoping to place first in their category. But for locals and visitors alike, championship-caliber barbecue isn’t just reserved for special occasions. It’s part of everyday life in backyards and restaurants all over the city.
Pork is at the heart of the city’s barbecue tradition, from tender pulled pork sandwiches to racks of ribs served dry with a savory spice rub or wet with a tangy sauce. Smoke and spice also extend well beyond classic barbecue plates. The city’s pitmasters are remarkably inventive, serving up creative dishes like barbecue spaghetti and dry-rubbed french fries.
I wanted to learn more about Memphis barbecue, so I connected with several local experts: Ernie Mellor, pitmaster and owner of Hog Wild BBQ; John and Anna Vergos, second- and third-generation owners of The Rendezvous; and Melissa Cookston, a seven-time world barbecue champion and owner of Memphis BBQ Co. I got a history lesson and some in-depth information about what defines Memphis-style barbecue.
What is Memphis-style barbecue?
Memphis-style barbecue has one foot in tradition and one foot in innovation. “Authentic Memphis-style barbecue is often best found in backyards, going back to its old-school roots strongly tied to cotton plantations, farmers and the African American community,” Ernie says. Pork, which was widely available and affordable, quickly became the meat of choice. “Traditionally, it was simply smoked pork shoulder that was pulled and sauced, served as a sandwich with coleslaw.”…