I secretly love traveling solo because I can eat whenever and wherever I want, sampling the best local spots on my own schedule. That freedom made barbecue a must during a short trip to North Carolina a few years ago. Having lived in Dallas, I wasn’t new to barbecue recipes, but I also knew North Carolina-style barbecue wouldn’t be the same as Texas-style brisket. So, I asked around for the best restaurant in Raleigh, grabbed a seat at the long counter and ordered a cold beer while I set about the business of figuring out just how many things I could taste in one meal.
I knew I had to build my plate around pork. It reigns supreme in North Carolina barbecue, from the coarsely chopped, tomato-dressed pork shoulders of the Lexington area to the whole hog barbecue that defines Eastern North Carolina. I’m sure the sides were delicious (I remember practically rolling out of the restaurant, totally stuffed), but it was the tender, smoke-kissed pork, lightly dressed in a vinegary sauce, that stole my heart.
To learn more about how this iconic pork is made, I spoke with a few pitmasters and North Carolina natives with a deep understanding of the state’s history and barbecue culture…