Welcome to Grub Street’s rundown of restaurant recommendations that aims to answer the endlessly recurring question: Where should we go? These are the spots that our food team thinks everyone should visit, for any reason (a new chef, the arrival of an exciting dish, or maybe there’s an opening that’s flown too far under the radar). This month: another tavern, a Provençal favorite returns, a West Village favorite gets a full revamp, and more.
Claudette (Greenwich Village)
After a two-year absence, Claudette is back in its old home. The space itself feels restrained and unfussy: The walls are warm and neutral and lined with oversize mirrors through which to watch the well-dressed crowd, and chef Igor Almeida Cabral has dialed into a purely Provençal mode. Martinis can come with two very French accompaniments: rosemary fougasse and a loosie cigarette. The food matches the season. Moules gratinées, lamb caillettes, and herb-y, tomatoey zucchini flowers that my table compared to pizza rolls were all winners. Dessert was fruit galette à la mode that similarly evolves to match whatever is growing; during my visit, the kitchen was transitioning from peach to apricot. —Shay Cohen…