Who knew that a renowned and wildly loved plate of crispy fried chicken comes not from America’s Deep South, but from a small town in Ohio? Or even more specifically, its birth story originates in the European country of Serbia. After emerging in Barberton, Ohio, via Serbian immigrants, the unique fried-chicken phenomenon eventually took the name of Barberton fried chicken. But make no mistake, this regional specialty is true Serbian-style, as interpreted by an enterprising couple, and now, their descendants.
After growing up together as children in Ohio, Serbian immigrants Mike Monojola and Smilks Topalsky married, then launched a fried-chicken enterprise in their humble farmhouse, introducing in 1933 a one-plate meal with a fated future. That dish became their solo entree for 33 years, comprised of the as-yet unknown Serbian-style fried chicken, plus vinegar coleslaw, fries, and a fiery “hot rice” hot sauce. The eatery that launched decades ago was, and still is, called Belgrade Gardens. It has remained in the same family hands, in the same farmhouse location, with a much-expanded seating capacity for 270 diners.
The Belgrade Gardens family now dishes out its renowned Barberton chicken from a second location as well, Belgrade Gardens South, situated between the Ohio cities of Akron and Canton. When dining at a Belgrade table, you’re breaking bread (or chicken) with a revolving door of devotees, which have ranged over the years from film, television, and football stars to high-level Ohio politicians. Other restaurants prepare the dish now, but they’re still primarily in the Buckeye State.
About Barberton chicken and where to find it
A major distinguishing component of Serbian-style Barberton fried chicken is the so-called hot sauce. By American standards, it’s actually not a hot sauce at all, rather a mixture of rice, tomatoes, and hot Hungarian peppers, known in Serbia as djuvece. It’s routinely served alongside the fried chicken, bringing a tangy‑spicy punch to the party, with diners often dipping fries into the “sauce.”…