The sides tell you almost everything you need to know. When the greens, mac and cheese, or cornbread can hold their own beside the main plate, somebody in the kitchen is paying attention.
That is exactly the promise behind this small Albany spot, where New York comfort food arrives with crispy catfish, fried chicken, and recipes built for serious appetites.
Nothing here needs a fancy dining room to make an impression. The draw is the food people think about before lunchtime and start craving again a few days later…