Nobody warned me that some of the best fried chicken I have tried would happen in the middle of the desert. New Mexico has a reputation for green chile everything, and rightfully so, but the state has been quietly perfecting something else entirely.
Southern comfort food, the kind that takes all day to make and about five minutes to demolish, has found a serious home here. Real biscuits.
Catfish with a crust that actually crunches. Collard greens cooked down with intention…