The follow-up act to Del Ray, Virginia’s neighborhood favorite, Matt & Tony’s, is centered around fried chicken served many ways: as a tower with sidewinder fries, pillowed in bibb lettuce, between fluffy milk bread-like buns with slaw, or topped with five ounces of caviar (at $16 a bite).
But there’s truly something for everyone at chef Eric Brannon’s weeks-old Little Birdie, from a cold noodle salad to whole grilled trout. Wooden tables, ivory walls, hanging plants, and outdoor blue cottage chairs give a casual country vibe, but the well-balanced cocktails and tuna tartare on crispy rice remind diners that hospitality veterans are behind this corner newcomer.
- The cornbread feels even more indulgent than all the fried chicken on the menu, with a slight sweetness and plenty of butter in the moist bread. To really put it over the top, the seared slices are served with three butters, each topped with nori, blueberry miso jelly, and an incredibly smoky hot sauce somewhat reminiscent of gochujang.
- There are plenty of fried chicken options on the menu, but my favorite was the gochujang-glazed chicken sandwich with a green onion and cabbage kimchi slaw, plus plenty of spicy mayo. The “working man Japanese milk bun” really upgrades these simple sandwiches, contrasting the airy, soft bun with the crispy breading.
- Don’t be afraid to order a salad, as there’s a surprisingly fantastic selection here. Brannon told me the watermelon panzanella is a popular order, and I loved the summer beets salad that stands out from the classic combinations of whipped goat cheese, pistachio, and mint with chunks of lip-puckering pickled rhubarb.
While there are tasteful beer and wine lists on the menu, the cocktails ($14 each) and equally thoughtful spirit-free mocktails ($10 each) highlight beverage director Michael Riojas’ talent. The Red Hen is a crowd-pleaser, with the first sip tasting like a light margarita and Aperol rounding out the drink with a light bitterness. There are just as many nonalcoholic options, with spiced teas upgrading the pear-flavored, milky green Partridge and the refreshing strawberry and rosemary-filled Cardinal…