Since we introduced “Jim Duncan’s Austin” on July 6, 2025, among his most popular histories are those recalling the city’s beloved bars, clubs and eateries. This week, we adapt four more of his Tex-Mex restaurant chronicles. Bonus: Three of the four are excellent Father’s Day tales. — Michael Barnes
1980: Juan in a Million
Juan Pablo and Myrna Yolanda Meza opened the popular East Austin spot at 2300 East Cesar Chavez St. in 1980. In addition to local acclaim, the restaurant has received national and international press from outlets such as USA Today and the BBC.
Menu favorites include the migas plate, huevos rancheros, con queso breakfast and the famous Don Juan El Taco Grande — a heaping plate of bacon, potatoes, eggs and cheese on a warm tortilla. It’s the most popular item thanks to college students looking for a filling meal at a price that doesn’t break the bank. Some say it can feed a family of four. There’s even an ongoing contest to see who can eat the most Don Juans in one sitting. The record is currently 13.
Today, Juan in a Million remains a family business with son Juan Jr., managing day-to-day operations and daughter Christina managing media relations. Juan says the secret to survival is owning your real estate: “We would have closed down years ago if we were leasing. You want to have control over what is going on around you. That was the initial intent. We kept investing, and now we have a real estate company and a restaurant…