At Sushi Samurai, the entirely vegan sushi restaurant at the top of Queen Anne, I dug into my konjac-root salmon and neatly rolled dragon roll. The faux fish was fine, nothing remarkable. But the meal as a whole was one of my favorites on a mission to suss out the city’s best vegan food. Veganity aside, Sushi Samurai was one of the few restaurants that started by getting the fundamentals right: the rice was perfectly cooked, the roll was tight, the nori still crisp.