For most diners, the quality of a piece of fish is measured by how long it takes to travel from the ocean (or river or lake) to the plate.
Wellness Counter, a new Japanese restaurant scheduled to open May 7 at 1117 Pearl St., is making a slightly different case.
The Boulder restaurant from Phoebe and Steven Lee, the couple behind Denver’s plant-based Wellness Sushi, will center on seafood and a dry-aging program that explores the idea that fish, much like a ribeye or a wheel of gruyere, can actually improve with age, according to a release…