There is Italian food and then there is this New York restaurant which somehow manages to feel like neither of those things and both of them at once. The pasta tastes like it was made this morning because it was.
The sauce tastes like it has been going since yesterday because it has. The whole meal arrives with the quiet and complete authority of a kitchen that learned to cook in Italy and never unlearned a single thing on the way over.
The state has no shortage of Italian restaurants and a genuine shortage of ones that feel like this. The authenticity here is not a design choice or a marketing angle…