While working as a young chef making his name in Durham, North Carolina, Matt Kelly dined at the venerable Magnolia Grill and tasted a dish from chef Ben Barker that blew his mind. “I put my spoon in it and to this day, I remember that first bite,” Kelly says. “I kept eating, and when I was done I ordered another one because it was the best dish I’d ever had.” Twelve years ago, Magnolia Grill closed its doors, and that holy-grail recipe, a twice-baked grits soufflé, disappeared with it-until now.