Jean’s By The Sea, a loving ode to the fish shacks of the coast, is providing a fresh injection of shellfish and seafood into the Durham food scene.
Zoom in: Jean’s, run by local wine and hospitality veteran Kate Elia, opened last month in a former Wimpy’s Grill location off Hillsborough Road in the Old West Durham neighborhood.
- The spot still retains the small and laid-back charm of a roadside grill, but offers ample outdoor seating and a beverage program that punches above its weight.
What to expect: The menu is thoroughly seafood-obsessed.
- The main focus of Jean’s is its Calabash-style baskets of shrimp, oysters, catfish and the market fish of the day. Depending on the choice of seafood, you can get it fried, blackened or grilled.
- You can also grab shrimp rolls, peel-and-eat shrimp, fried fish sandwiches, oysters on the half shell, chowder and a daily crudo.
- The drink menu is extensive, so you can splash down oysters with a long list of wines, draft beers and cocktails, including a michelada you can add an oyster to.
What we tried: On our visit, we ordered the smoked fish dip ($12), a refreshing Crystal Coast shrimp roll ($14.95) and a side of hushpuppies ($4), which were doughy and slightly sweet.
đź“Ť Location: 617 Hicks St., Durham…