Some restaurants get famous because they chase attention. This Illinois spot did it by staying stubbornly itself.
On a corner in Cicero, a long-running Italian market and restaurant has spent decades feeding people the way old family kitchens used to feed people, with square pizza, hot sandwiches, and the kind of regulars who already know exactly what they came for.
It has the feel of a neighborhood grocery, a lunch counter, and a Sunday dinner memory all packed into one busy little place…