The line stretched through the bar, out the door, and down the block.
People suffered the cold winter night for Margaret Pak’s chicken biryani, pinquito bean curry, and her already famous masala biscuit. That was because they knew it might be months before they’d eat her food again.
Pak and her husband, Vinod Kalathil, had already made history when they opened the city’s first and only Keralan restaurant. But after the pandemic shut down the Fulton Market food hall that housed it, she went back to her roots in the pop-up world…