This massive bowl of Vietnamese soup deserves your full attention

It was a cold day downtown when I stopped at Saigon Subs and Rolls for lunch. I intended to order a banh mi sandwich, my usual go-to. But when I saw a customer sitting alone in what seemed like a trance over a big white bowl of pho, I changed my mind.

Pho, the national dish of Vietnam, requires a time commitment. You can’t just take it back to the office and slurp it over your laptop. No, it deserves your full attention and a certain amount of respect. I prefer eating it alone. Who needs a dining companion when you have pho?

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Those first few spoonfuls of aromatic broth set the tone. Toasted spices (cloves, star anise, cinnamon, cardamom, fennel seeds and coriander seeds, etc.) deliver the kind of warmth and complexity that almost seems intangible. Chopped cilantro and scallions add sweet, spicy and peppery notes, while the meat (I went with chicken, but beef is always better) provides nourishment. Add some of the provided crunchy bean sprouts or spicy jalapenos, but go light on the Thai basil since it can overwhelm.

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