First Look: Acclaimed L.A. Chef Debuts Intimate Denver Chef’s Counter

“This isn’t Bar Chelou,” asserts chef Douglas Rankin, who moved to Denver last August after shuttering his two-year-old, award-winning Pasadena bistro following the fires that devastated nearby areas. Now, he’s introduced what he calls Bar Chelou’s “grown-up little brother,” Petit Chelou, a six-seat, six-course chef’s counter tasting-menu housed inside Hop Alley, at 3500 Larimer Street. “Chelou” is French slang for “weird” or “odd,” hinting at the unconventional style Rankin prefers.

The basics: The price is $125 per person, with some optional supplements, a la carte wine, cocktails and N/A drink options, and an $88 wine pairing that you should definitely opt for.

Rankin has been cooking in the space since October, when he launched a residency there, but this marks his first step toward opening a Denver brick-and-mortar.

Who is Douglas Rankin?

Before striking out on his own, the chef worked under big names such as José Andrés and Ludo Lefebvre, including a stint at Lefebvre’s tasting-menu spot, Trois Mec. “That was one of the best restaurants I’ve ever worked in. This is really kind of a return to that, but my way,” Rankin says…

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