For 40 years, the Big Steer has welcomed hungry diners to its classic steakhouse. (Photo: Seeta Lee) The massive cow statue in front of the Big Steer in Altoona seems to be either a source of embarrassment or a beacon of deliciousness. At 5 p.m. on a recent Sunday, the cow’s yellowed, illuminated sign reads, “Happy 20th birthday, Emma!” It’s unclear if Emma is an employee or the guest of honor at a big party inside. It wasn’t apparent from the half-paved, half-gravel parking lot where I spot a pickup from Ohio, another from Georgia, and a smattering of cars, crossovers, and other trucks from across Iowa.