The team behind Mamani earned a Michelin star 48 days after opening. That’s not a typo. Forty-eight days. Brothers Brandon and Henry Cohanim built Feels Like Home Hospitality with a talent-scouting instinct that has been almost unsettling in its accuracy — they recruited Paris-born chef Christophe De Lellis, formerly of Joël Robuchon in Las Vegas, to run Mamani’s kitchen, and bar director Rubén Rolón, whose cocktail program at Bar Colette was nominated for Best New Bar by the James Beard Foundation.
When people who know Dallas dining tasted the bread service at Mamani — a rotating selection of freshly baked loaves served with Rodolphe Le Meunier butter flown in from France — the question wasn’t whether a bakery was coming. It was when.
The answer is March 9. The Bread Club opened at 2681 Howell Street in Uptown’s The Quad, right next door to Mamani, in a 2,600-square-foot space with 30 seats and a patio that was packed with people spilling onto the lawn within a week of opening.
The person the Cohanims brought in to run it is Peter Edris, and his background explains why this bakery is worth paying attention to. He grew up on a chicken farm in rural Pennsylvania, got a job at a French restaurant as a teenager, and spent the next two decades building one of the more serious bread résumés in the country — developing programs at Aureole in New York, then as head baker at Frenchette Bakery in Tribeca and at their second location inside the Whitney Museum in the Meatpacking District. He came to Dallas because the Cohanims offered him something most serious bakers never get: a stone mill…