The sign out front is weathered, the parking lot is packed, and the line moves slowly. Those are all good signs.
This waterfront Virginia restaurant has been serving fried seafood platters for decades, and locals will tell you the food never disappoints. I arrived on a busy evening, took my place in line, and watched the plates come out of the kitchen, piled high with golden shrimp, crispy oysters, and tender fish.
The smell of frying batter and sea salt hung in the air. When my platter finally arrived, I understood the wait…