Tequilería Alteño offers small bites with big flavor

Chef Johnny Curielreturned to Denver empty-handed from the recent James Beard Awards ceremony, but his latest project proves why he was there in the first place.

The latest: Tequilería Alteño opened as a pop-up this week in the space formerly occupied by his Spanish-style bistro Mar Bella Wine Bar inside the Clayton Hotel & Members Club in Cherry Creek.

  • The new spot — located across from his Michelin-recommended restaurant Alteño — specializes in replicating Mexico’s cantina culture with sharable bites, 80-plus regional spirits and icy lagers.

Best bites: All 11 menu items are superb. If I had to choose five, my picks — in order of I didn’t really want to share them — are:

  • Taco de pescado made with Japanese hamachi.
  • Tostada de atun made with bigeye tuna drizzled in ponzu sauce.
  • Flautas bañadas made with roasted chicken and salsa verde.
  • Ostiones (baked oysters) served with bluefin otoro.
  • Aguachile verde made with Gulf shrimp and herb serrano broth.

For drinks, try the charro negro — a classic tequila-and-Coke drink — or the mole blanco negroni.

What they’re saying: “To build a tequilería across the hall from Alteño is a dream,” Curiel tells us, before recommending the chamorro (pork shank), by far the largest dish on the menu…

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