Lumbre is now officially open in the Rome Collective, and the name tells you exactly what to expect from the concept: fire. The latest from Tastes Pretty Good — the group behind Michelin-starred Rocca, Michelin-recommended Bar Terroir, and Bib Gourmand Streetlight Taco — is a wood-fired Spanish concept, built for sharing, and at a friendlier price point than its fine-dining sisters.
When you walk in, the first thing you see is the grill. The kitchen is fully open and the fire is the centerpiece. The space is big, with plenty of bar and counter seating alongside regular tables.
The Ibérico ($55) was the star of the night. Everyone was ordering it. It’s a pork collar that the kitchen serves medium-well, so the fat renders properly, resulting in a juicy masterpiece of salt, fat, and char that does a convincing impression of a great ribeye.
Everything we ordered at Lumbre:
- Pan con Tomate ($8) – charred pan de cristal, easily feeds four
- Croquetas de Jamón ($11) – In our humble opinion, you can never go wrong with a croqueta.
- Tartare ($12) – their take on the crowd favorite of tuna crispy rice.
- Tortilla de Patatas ($13) – a classic served with shishito peppers and garlic aioli.
- Mushrooms ($16) – 4 kinds, all wood-fired, served with an egg yolk and pancetta, with the option to add foie gras.
- Cannelloni ($18) – one of the best bites of the night. The veal demi-glace is something serious, and it reminded us of the Boeof Bourguignon at Bar Terroir.
- Ibérico ($55) – Pork Collar, see above.
- Basque Cheesecake ($13) – made with goat cheese and served with poached pears.
The bar deserves its own visit
The bar program really shines here too. The cocktails are well thought out, creative, and Spanish to the core. The Barrel-Aged Sangria ($14) rivals that of the Columbia’s.
We sampled the La Huerta ($14) on our way out, and dirty martini lovers with a spice tolerance should be intrigued. It’s served tableside in a porrón with house chili-infused vodka, tomato water, celery, and basil eau de vie. It’s garnished with a grilled olive stuffed with gorgonzola and sundried tomato, which is the kind of detail that tells you how much thought went into the rest of the menu…