Barbecue isn’t easy. The long hours, the procurement of hardwood for fuel, the unpredictability of the process, and the cost of meat mean that the best smokehouses are run by passionate souls dedicated to perfecting an imperfect craft.
Even when the smoking’s done, pitmasters still have to please the picky palates of Denver transplants craving a taste of home. Is the brisket sliced or chopped, and is it offered in both lean or fatty cuts? Does the pulled pork have that certain vinegar tang from an eastern North Carolina mop or does it come with a mustardy South Carolina sauce? Are the ribs dry rubbed or glazed? Can you get burnt ends, rib tips, chicken wings, and meatless options like tofu and jackfruit?
There was a time when the Mile High City’s barbecue scene wasn’t much of a scene at all, but in more recent years the sharing of recipes and techniques on social media and cooking shows has turned art into science, allowing more pitmasters to dial in their products before going pro. So yes, the barbecue tide is high and more boats are rising with it—but the bar has also been raised so that what was once considered the best in town a decade or two ago is now merely adequate…