Winemakers often gush about grapes grown in volcanic soils, but what does that mean in the glass? Rich in minerals, these porous soils allow roots to dig deep for water and nutrients — resulting in smaller, more concentrated berries prized for their intensity and mineral notes. At scenic Hamel Family Wines in Sonoma, visitors can taste those distinctions.
The story
George Hamel Jr., the co-founder of a San Francisco-based investment management firm, got his first taste of Wine Country life in 2006, when he and his wife, Pamela, bought a house in Kenwood and started growing an acre of Cabernet Sauvignon on the site — later dubbed Tres Palma Vineyard.
Four years later, they acquired 120 acres of land in Sonoma Valley and developed the Hamel Estate Vineyard. The couple then added Nuns Canyon Vineyard in Moon Mountain, planted on a volcanic property along the steep slopes of the Mayacamas Mountains, and opened Hamel Family Winery in 2014.
John Hamel, George and Pamela’s son, now heads up winemaking and viticulture, crafting estate-grown wines from the family’s certified organic and biodynamic vineyards. The winery farms a total of 91 acres of dry-farmed Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Grenache and Sauvignon Blanc.
The vibe
Designed by celebrated architect Douglas Thornley of Gould Evans, the sleek, modern winery makes a statement with 18-foot-high windows and an expansive terrace that showcases Hamel’s estate vineyards and Sonoma Mountain views.
Whether seated inside or on the patio, you’ll feel immersed in the beautiful landscape. Extending into a hillside behind the winery is an immaculate 12,000-square-foot wine cave used for barrel and cask storage. An exposed section of the cave wall reveals layers of volcanic soils that shape Hamel’s wines.
On the palate
Hamel began moving toward a new winemaking style in 2020, focusing on minerality and freshness. To put volcanic terroir front and center, the winery uses neutral aging vessels such as large oak casks, concrete tanks and clay vessels.
The 2024 Nuns Canyon Sauvignon Blanc from Moon Mountain ($80) is crisp and balanced, showing bright citrus flavors and brisk acidity. The 2020 Isthmus Cabernet Sauvignon ($90) is a gently structured, elegant wine with aromas of black fruits and flavors of ripe blackberries.
I was wowed by the 2023 Nuns Canyon Grenache ($110), with its bouquet of red berries, cherries, savory notes and spice. The wine expertly combines freshness with complexity.
Tastings range from $95 for a tour and tasting of current releases paired with a seasonal snack to $200 for the Chef’s Experience, a communal tasting combining library wines and current releases, matched with exquisite small plates such as Liberty Farms duck breast and ricotta gnocchi with huckleberries.
Beyond the bottle
As much as I love a high-end food pairing experience, I frequently have a hankering for more down-to-earth eats…