Some restaurants chase trends. Others keep doing one thing the same way for so long that people drive an hour just to make sure nothing has changed.
In Montclair, New Jersey, there is a small fish fry that fits the second group perfectly. It takes cash only, it keeps the menu simple, and it has fed some regulars for close to 30 years.
The star is fried catfish, served without fuss, and the sides have their own loyal fans. There is a potato salad that people talk about more than almost anything else on the menu…