Championing a very flexible definition of a taco, El Impostor soft-opened Monday in West Allis (7413 W. Greenfield Ave.). The restaurant’s theme of not playing by traditional taco rules uses the tortilla as a launchpad. “You can put anything in it. If it’s good food, it’s going to be even better in a tortilla,” says owner Casey Rataczak, best known for operating the two Camino bar/restaurants.
One of those “even better” things he means goes by “Zeus” on the El Impostor menu. It’s a grilled chicken taco with cucumber salad and feta. Other globe-trotting tacos ($5-$6 each) are Mahkani Man Savage (butter chicken and cabbage slaw), Japanicow (shaved rib-eye, Japanese BBQ, wasabi crema, radish), Gaucho (grilled steak, chimichurri, avocado salsa) and Curry Cameron (grilled shrimp, red pepper, pickled onion, green curry crema).
The menu also features tlayudas, a very loose definition of a pizza with the base being a tortilla (here, it’s a 12-inch flour one). Versions of the tlayuda at El Impostor include Pigs & Chihuahua (grilled pork with black bean puree, chipotle lime crema, chihuahua cheese, $20) and El Gigante Verde (seasonal roasted veggies, black bean puree, chihuahua cheese and cilantro lime crema, $18).
Starters and sides include Real Good Corn in a Cup ($5), papas bravas ($10) and chicken takitos (aka taquitos $12). Of other non-taco options, there’s a double smash burger ($15) and a Caesar salad ($13)…