Beyond curry: How Chef Sujan Sarkar is changing America’s perception of Indian food

Chef Sujan Sarkar is on a mission to redefine what Indian food looks and tastes like. Within the States, in particular, the cuisine has garnered an erroneous reputation for solely consisting of just curries or meals saturated with oil. But that is far from the truth.

Sarkar — who grew up in India and later, found himself in an array of prestigious kitchens across London and Dubai — has been at the forefront of pioneering modern Indian cuisine for the past 20-plus years. To him, modern food isn’t a mere trend nor is it defined strictly as fusion cuisine. It’s food that pushes the boundaries of art and aesthetics while still remaining true to its traditional flavors. It’s paying homage to the rich history and vibrant stories tied to specific ingredients that ultimately make up a finished meal.

Sarkar is doing exactly that at four of his current establishments: Swadesi, Baar Baar (both in New York City and Los Angeles), Indienne and Tiya, his latest restaurant. At Swadesi, Sarkar serves up a Samosa Chaat Croissant filled with spiced potatoes and peas alongside a Butter Chicken Croissant that features burrata and red pepper makhani. At Baar Baar, Sarkar flaunts Brie Pakora, Jackfruit Biryani and Stuffed Malai Mushrooms. At Indienne, Sarkar is known for his Lamb Chop Burrah and Mishti Doi Tart.

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