We travelled by RV along the Texas coast to Louisiana – among warships, alligators and the ‘Gateway to Mars’

The outlandish outline in the distance really piqued our interest. What building could possibly create that peculiar profile here on the Texas coast? It was quite clear from our South Padre Island viewpoint eight miles away. A drilling rig? An oil refinery? The hideout of a James Bond villain?

As it turned out, it was closer to the latter. Having driven over to investigate, the signage that greeted us was positively jaw-dropping. “Gateway to Mars” it proclaimed in 10ft-tall letters. We had discovered Elon Musk’s Starbase .

To our amazement, passers-by could walk right up to this much-heralded space programme funded by the richest man on earth. The 100-acre, $20bn complex, with its colossal Starship rocket system, is located inside Boca Chica State Park, and Boca Chica Boulevard runs right through it. From Boca Chica Beach, we stood on the dunes and marveled at the awe-inspiring development. Although off-limits during launch days, we arrived during a quiet week and were able to get a full close-up of this mind-boggling monument to private enterprise, headlined by Musk’s intention to take humanity to Mars.

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