Every day, thousands (yes, thousands!) of buttery, pillowy and sugary Spanish rolls are devoured from Nanding’s Bakery on Gulick Avenue. It’s been this way for more than two decades—and nothing’s changing.
As a Filipino who grew up in a working-class neighborhood of Kalihi, I’ve always gravitated to the simple flavors and soulful preparations of Filipino foods. And when I’m feeling wistful, I head to Nanding’s.
While the bakery’s signature Spanish rolls can now be found pre-packaged at local grocery stores, as well as locations in Kapahulu and Waipahu, I prefer getting a fresh, piping-hot batch from the original Kalihi shop. It’s just a few blocks from my childhood home, and growing up, I felt spoiled living so close, knowing that people trek from across the island for their fix—finessing their way into the tiny parking lot.
Nanding’s was founded in 2001 by Fernando Paez, who grew up baking. When he moved to Honolulu from the Philippines to reunite with his family, he started baking bread at home to sell to Filipino hotel workers at bus stops. After being warned by the state health department that he needed a legal business, he opened Nanding’s, his nickname.
Although it’s always been small in terms of square footage, it more than makes up for it with a pastry case full of delicious Filipino baked goods. Along with the original Spanish roll, there’s now a version with ube, swirled into the soft, cylindrical bread, making for an irresistible Filipino meryenda (snack). Nanding’s take on ensaymada (a soft, sweet pastry spiraled and topped with whipped butter and sugar) and balintawak (a red-hued, cakey bread pudding wrapped in sweet bread) are also favorites of mine. And, of course, a bag of pan de sal (soft bread rolls) is a must. Paired with a fried egg and longanisa sausage, it’s the ultimate “breakfast of champions.”
While recently visiting the Kalihi shop, it was just as I remembered, with animated conversations in Ilocano and Tagalog taking place among customers and the staff. Growing up, Nanding’s was what I looked forward to after church on Sundays and a must-stop on the way to family parties. And now, at this corner of Kalihi, the scent of freshly baked bread lingers, and I’m pulled back in time…