Thoroughbred Country in South Carolina is a must-visit. During the Gilded Age, wealthy northerners came to Aiken for the weather, spring water, and pine scented air. The railroad arrived in 1830 so it was an easy trip. They brought their horses for racing and pole, two of their favorite sports, and established their “Winter Colony.” The culture they created makes Aiken a fun place to visit especially for over-50 solo travelers. Plus, the food is excellent.
I was hosted, but all opinions are my own.
SheBuysTravel Tip: Dress is casual in most places. but if you plan to ride or play polo, you will want to bring your own gear.
Willcox Hotel
- Why go: To experience the lifestyle of those Winter Colonists, the Willcox Hotel is the place to stay. The hotel was built in the late 19th century and only accepted the well-to-do guests. The lobby has the feel of an English gentlemen’s club of that era with walls of curly-pine paneling and exposed ceiling beams.My room had a comfortable bed and was furnished like a 19th century room but it had all the modern amenities, plus a fireplace and a long window seat looking out to where the train once brought the winter residents. There’s an insider story about the railroad.President Franklin Roosvelt would take his private train going to his Warm Springs winter home. The train would conveniently “break down” here and he would take an elevator to the third floor to meet with his mistress, Lucy Mercer. The train wouldn’t get fixed until the next day.
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- What not to Miss: While waiting for your room, you can order a drink in the lobby. Be sure to visit the pool even if you;re not swimming. It is beautiful.
Art in Aiken
Why go: All over Aiken I saw sculpted and painted fiberglass horses. There are many street murals. Aiken Center for the Arts is filled with art. One of my favorites is the painted horse, Splendor in the Grass, painted by Jo An King. Besides the murals, restaurants, and shops in Whiskey Alley, you’ll find live entertainment most weekends.Each Thursday In summer, it hosts Market in the Alley that blends a farmers market with live entertainment. Just across from Whiskey Alley, Amentum Center for Performing Arts hosts plays and live entertainment. I was surprised to learn that Aiken has its own symphony.
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What not to Miss: Horse Around Aiken on a Treasure Hunt. Pick up a map of nine painted horses at the Center for the Arts and search for them. When you find all nine, return the map and get a prize.
Tailored Tour with Marty Bailey
- Why go: A Tailored Tour with Marty Bailey is the best way to learn the stories behind the historic homes. She knows all the backstories about the “Winter Colony.” She’ll tailor the tour to your interests. She took us by one of the oldest houses in Aiken, the Colonial Revival home called “Chinaberry” and told the story of how Aiken got the railroad. Chinaberry’s owner, Dr. William Williams, offered part of his land for the train route to William Aiken, Sr., president of South Carolina Canal and Railroad Company. Aiken’s survey crew, led by Alfred Dexter, said Aiken was too hilly for the train to come there. But he fell in love with Dr. Williams’ daughter, Sarah. When Dexter asked Dr. Williams for Sarah’s hand, he replied, “I’d love to have you as a son-in-law. If only I had a railroad.” Naturally, Williams got the railroad and Sarah married Dexter.
- What not to Miss: Marty’s tour took us past many of the homes that once belonged to the rich and famous. She told insider stories like how Bing Crosby, who attended the historic St. Mary Help of Christians Church, wanted to join the choir. On Easter Sunday, 1960, he went to the choir loft. When the director saw him she said, “I’m sorry, you’re gonna have to leave, this is only for choir members.” Afterwards she realized who she had rejected. Next Sunday she posted a sign reading, “choir loft for choir members and Bing Crosby only.” Bing Crosby then sang with the choir.
SheBuysTravel Tip: Ask Marty about the haunted homes.
Aiken County Historical Museum
- Why go: The Aiken County Historical Museum is housed in Banksia that was once the home of Richard Howe. Howe expanded an 1862 farmhouse to the present three story 17,500 sq. ft.building. The Duke and Duchess of Windsor were frequent guests at hsi elaborate parties. Fred Astair often entertained Howe’s guests. The museum tells the history of Aiken with hundreds of artifacts.
- What not to Miss: Go out back and see the 1890s one-room schoolhouse and an early 19th-century log cabin.
Hopelands Gardens
- Why go: Hope Goddard Iselin was one of the Winter Colonists. She died in 1970 at 102 and left Hopelands Gardens, the grounds where her home once stood to Aiken. Her home was demolished, but three original structures remain. The carriage house became the Aiken Thoroughbred Racing Hall of Fame. The Doll House was a playhouse and schoolhouse for the Iselin children and is now the home of the Aiken Garden Club Council. The caretaker’s cottage is still home to the garden caretaker.
- What not to Miss: Stroll through the gardens, canopied by 100-year-old oaks. You’ll find wildlife, an amphitheater, reflection pool, and three magnificent fountains where the Iselin home once stood.
Aiken Thoroughbred Racing Hall of Fame
- Why go: This is where I learned about the history of thoroughbreds. Thoroughbreds were first bred in 17th- and 18th-century England by mating native mares with imported Arabian stallions. Only horses that have won an Eclipse Award and are trained here get featured here. Many started at the Aiken Steeplechase, a tradition in Aiken and one of the oldest steeplechase races in the country, begun in 1930. It’s the second event in Aiken Triple Crown events.
- What not to Miss: Look up at the ceiling in the room to the left as you enter the museum. There’s a carriage washer mounted there. Mrs. Islin, who owned the then carriage house, would bring her carriage in here, turn the water on, and it would revolve and wash the carriage.
Stables
- Why go: Lisa Hall, Hall of Fame and Museum coordinator, took us to see Ambrose Clark Stables. It’s a historic property that includes a stable, riding arena, and paddocks in Aiken’s horse district next to the Winthrop Polo Field. We even met a horse there. He was in the paddock and came over to see if we brought him any treats. Next stop we visited Legacy Stable where Brad Stauffer told us about training racehorses.
- What not to Miss: Take time to pet the horses. I also got to pet the stable cat, who was resting on a large bale of hay at Legacy Stable.
Aiken Training Track
- Why go:Aiken Training Track is where many events are held, including the first event of the world-famous Aiken Triple Crown events, The Aiken Trials. Thoroughbreds are famous for their speed and this track is where many first show it off.
- What not to Miss: Lisa led us out onto the track to a huge oak tree where Blue Peter is buried. His is a sad story. Blue Peter was bred and raced by Joseph M. Roebling of the famed Brooklyn Bridge builder family. Blue Peter was the grandson of Man o’ War, arguably the greatest racehorse ever. At two years old, he won Belmont Futurity Stakes, and the Hopeful Stakes earning him American Champion Two-year-old Colt honors. He was preparing for the Kentucky Derby in 1948 but took sick and died at age four.
Dining
Dining is a pleasure in Aiken. Starting at Willcox, enjoy a complimentary breakfast. It’s not the usual buffet breakfast. I had the Willcox Breakfast of two eggs sunny side up, bacon, smashed potato, and toast. The next day, I had Belgian Waffle topped with fresh fruit, whipped cream, and served with maple syrup. Both were delicious. The night I enjoyed dinner there, our group shared a cheeseboard, and I had Broiled Jumbo Lump Crab Cakes with creamed spinach.
Breakfast at the Aiken Track Kitchen was experiences dining like the grooms at the track. My two eggs were perfect, as were the grits, bacon and toast. It’s cash only here.
Two other restaurants I enjoyed are The Feed Sack and Good Girl Brewing…