Roy Pope Grocery: Fort Worth’s Elegant Revival of a Neighborhood Icon

In a city known for its stockyards and cowboy bravado, Roy Pope Grocery in Fort Worth stands as a quiet monument to local heritage and refined taste. On the genteel streets of Arlington Heights this neighborhood grocery has evolved far beyond its 1943 origins as a humble provisions store. Today, it operates as a hybrid—part market, part café, part coffee and wine bar—anchored by an ethos that respects its past while embracing the rhythms of modern food culture. Inside its burnished-brick facade, visitors are just as likely to run into longtime Westside residents on a morning espresso run as they are to find curious newcomers perusing the boutique wine wall.

The store’s rebirth in 2021 was not accidental. After nearly 80 years, Roy Pope Grocery briefly shuttered in 2020, prompting an outcry from loyal customers and local preservationists. Stepping in were a small group of Fort Worth entrepreneurs including Lou Lambert, the well-known chef and restaurateur, who brought a deep reverence for the building’s legacy. They didn’t gut the place; they restored it. Hardwood floors were refinished, original details were kept intact, and the space was reimagined with a nod to its 20th-century charm—subway tile, brass fixtures, and sleek open shelving—while expanding its purpose as a neighborhood gathering place.

The food, curated with the precision of a fine dining menu, reflects that balance of heritage and innovation. The café counter dishes out a brisk breakfast crowd—egg sandwiches on jalapeño cheddar biscuits, avocado toast finished with lemon oil and microgreens, or smoked salmon layered with capers on thick multigrain bread. The lunch menu is especially compelling, anchored by a rotating list of sandwiches and salads. Their fried chicken sandwich, subtly spiced and layered with house pickles, is a study in texture and balance. The kale Caesar, adorned with shaved Parmesan and brittle house croutons, isn’t a throwaway side dish—it’s a point of pride.

There’s a wine and beer bar along the west wall that serves as an informal evening retreat, with glass pours and canned cocktails curated by staff who aren’t just knowledgeable but invested. They remember names. They recall who prefers Barbera over Zinfandel and will offer tastes of the newest small-batch arrivals. Paired with a charcuterie plate or a warm baguette from the bakery, a glass of chilled rosé in the golden late-afternoon light transforms this grocery store into something closer to a European-style épicerie.

Despite its transformation, Roy Pope remains a functioning market. Local eggs, small-batch granola, heirloom produce, pints of Melt ice cream, and thoughtfully sourced meats from regional ranches line the shelves. Everything here feels intentional. Nothing is excessive. The same restraint that governs the menu guides the market inventory, and the result is a shopping experience that feels personal rather than performative…

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