Young chefs talk about farm-to-table like it’s something new, but John Ash was doing it in Sonoma County in the 1970s. Like his contemporary Alice Waters at Chez Panisse, he was before his time, focusing on fresh, seasonal and local ingredients when most American restaurants were still cooking from cans. He also championed local wines from Sonoma and Mendocino and emphasized how essential it was for the food and wine to complement each other.
Ash, who is rightly considered the father of wine country cuisine, died Aug. 7 of a heart condition after a brief illness. He was 83.
Ash became a beloved figure in Sonoma County over the years. He didn’t yell in the kitchen, opting for a calming voice and a professorial demeanor, a gentleman in the best sense. “His passion, creativity and generosity were felt by all who had the honor to know him and he will be dearly missed,” the team at Hog Island Oyster Co. posted on social media. He was a board member of the company and wrote The Hog Island Book of Fish & Seafood, released in 2023…