Fort Worth has long celebrated restaurateur Mary Perez as its very own “Queen of Sauces,” a culinary force whose enchiladas and smoked barbecue have drawn devotees from across the city. But over the past year, both of Perez’s eateries experienced a rough patch that reminded even the most seasoned restaurateurs that great food isn’t always enough.
The Fort Worth dining scene buzzed with the news of Perez’s third Enchiladas Olé iteration, this one in the old Boozie’s Brewery space at 6473 Camp Bowie Boulevard in Oct. of 2023. The Nicolas Cage mural stayed on the wall; margaritas flowed, and for a while, it seemed like Perez had pulled off another triumph. Yet fast forward nearly two years later, and that Camp Bowie location shuttered — not because of the food, which remains as dependable as ever, but according to Perez, because of the slow churn of Texas bureaucracy.
Perez’s social media posts laid out the saga with equal parts frustration and heartbreak: years of permit applications, thousands spent on temporary liquor licenses, and still no full approval. Customers wanted a margarita with their enchiladas, she explained, but without a license, the tables emptied faster than she could refill them…