Petaluma’s dining scene doesn’t get much heat, but subtle French newcomer Bijou seems primed to break through. Table Culture Provisions chef Stéphane Saint Louis, who grew up in New York and Port-au-Prince, Haiti, strikes lowkey and elegant notes at this Kentucky Street main character.
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- Highlighting the humble French onion soup may seem disrespectful to entrees like the meaty beef Wellington. But here it gets robust, prime-time treatment. The onions are proper caramelized slivers, and a treasure chest of cheese centers the dish in a deep well of umami.
- About those mains: the beef Wellington — a medley of puff pastry and mushroom duxelles with pommes…