A buffet’s worth of food pop-ups launched in the first year of COVID-19. Some flamed out, while others, like Cenaduria Elvira, became shooting stars. Now, the business that began in a Jingletown backyard and quickly gained notoriety for its focus on flavor-packed, lovingly-crafted dishes from the Mexican state of Jalisco, is ready for the next phase, a brick and mortar in Oakland’s Jack London Square.
Elvira Varela started Cenaduria Elvira out of her home in October 2020, when the company she worked for temporarily closed during the early months of the pandemic. Since then, she has built a devoted following thanks to Zapotlanejo-style tostadas raspadas, which The New York Times declared one of best dishes in the country in 2023, and other regional dishes that are harder to find in the Bay Area.
The tentative grand opening for Cenaduria Elvira in Jack London Square (468 3rd St., Oakland) is the first week of December, pending completion of construction and final permit approvals from the city of Oakland. It is possible delays could push the opening to January 2026, Varela said…