Earlier this month, roughly a dozen of California’s buzziest new wave winemakers gathered at Wine Country landmark the Glen Ellen Star to share their wines — all Cabernet Sauvignons made from Montecillo Vineyard — over dinner. “There’s so much talent,” said Montecillo owner Blair Guthrie, gesturing at the table. “You look around and you’re like holy s—.”
It’s rare for a grape grower to throw a party for their winery clients. This year, it feels especially improbable. Relationships between growers and winemakers have become strained by the wine industry’s unprecedented oversupply of wine and grapes. More than 38,000 acres of California vineyards have been ripped out in the past year, with thousands more abandoned. Grapes were left to rot on the vines, as wineries, unable to sell their excess inventory, cut back production and stopped purchasing fruit. Some even refused the fruit they contracted to buy, leaving growers in the lurch.
Yet there was no hint of tension at the Glen Ellen Star. The attendees had swapped their winemaking uniform — boots, a vest and a hat — for collared shirts and sweaters and exchanged hugs and light ribbing instead of perfunctory handshakes…