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- I paid $1,963 for a 43-hour Amtrak train to avoid Thanksgiving travel chaos. It felt like stepping back in time. (businessinsider.com)
All Aboard! Ditching Airport Chaos for a 43-Hour Amtrak Adventure
CHICAGO, IL – Tired of the pre-Thanksgiving airport scramble and the general hustle of modern life? One traveler recently found an unconventional, yet surprisingly refreshing, solution: a 43-hour Amtrak journey from Los Angeles to Chicago. Trading in pat-downs for panoramic views and rushed connections for communal connections, the experience on the Southwest Chief proved to be a delightful step back in time.
In an age dominated by screens and the relentless pursuit of instant gratification, this cross-country train ride offered a stark contrast. Imagine gazing out at the breathtaking red mesas of the Southwest, sharing meals with complete strangers, and even engaging in a friendly game of chess with fellow passengers – all while covering 2,265 miles.
The decision to opt for rails over wings was twofold: a desire to sidestep the notorious Thanksgiving travel chaos and, perhaps more importantly, the thrill of an adventure. While the $1,963 price tag for a private sleeper car for two was significantly steeper and the travel time far longer than a flight, the journey delivered on its promise of an unforgettable experience through the American West. This sentiment seems to be shared by many, as Amtrak recently reported record ridership and revenue, with 34.5 million customer trips in the last fiscal year.
Unlike the often impersonal and stress-inducing reality of air travel, Amtrak maintains a charmingly old-school vibe. It’s slower, more communal, and refreshingly less rigid.
A Cozy Home on Wheels
Departing from Los Angeles’s Union Station the Monday before Thanksgiving, the Southwest Chief embarked on its route through Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado, Kansas, Missouri, a sliver of Iowa, and finally, Illinois. Along the way, passengers were treated to glimpses of historic train stations, ghost towns, and stunning landscapes.
The traveler booked a “Family Room,” a spacious accommodation designed for up to two adults and two children. This private haven spanned the width of the train, featuring a bench that transformed into a comfortable bed (slightly wider than a twin), additional benches for seating or a child’s bed, and two upper bunks that folded down from the ceiling. The room offered ample space to stretch out, work on laptops, and enjoy the dual-sided window views.
Shared bathrooms and a surprisingly spacious shower, complete with solid water pressure, were available to sleeper car passengers and were noted for their cleanliness. Each morning, a fresh pot of coffee was brewed by the attentive sleeper car attendant, who also managed a sign-up sheet for bed service.
The Heart of the Journey: Community Spaces
Mealtime was a highlight, with breakfast, lunch, and dinner included in the sleeper car fare and served in the dining car. Amtrak’s traditional dining service encourages communal seating, meaning unless you’re a party of four, you’ll likely be sharing a table with strangers. Far from being a drawback, this was described as a key element of the Amtrak experience.
Over various meals, the traveler encountered fascinating individuals: a couple on a six-week vacation taking multiple trains to catch a cruise, a New Yorker who chose the train to avoid potential government shutdown flight delays and explore the Southwest, and an older woman whose lifelong connection to trains stemmed from her father’s railroad career.
The food, while not gourmet, exceeded expectations. Described as “standard banquet food” – think steak, chicken, and pasta – dishes like mac and cheese (from the kids’ menu) and a salmon dish were deemed solid. The breakfast quesadilla earned high praise, but the undeniable star was the delicious chocolate spoon cake.
Unplugging (Mostly) and Connecting
Beyond the dining car, the observation car served as a vibrant community hub, boasting expansive windows for optimal scenic viewing. Here, the traveler found a comfortable spot to work, often having to tear their eyes away from the captivating landscapes passing by.
One notable feature, or lack thereof, that contributed to the train’s nostalgic feel was the absence of Wi-Fi. While some Amtrak trains offer it, this particular route did not, prompting reliance on phone hotspots. Cell service was generally reliable, with only minor, brief disruptions.
The observation car was a lively space, filled with conversations, games, and fewer people glued to their screens than one might anticipate. Evenings involved grabbing drinks from the café car and settling in for games. A particularly intense chess match even drew an audience of strangers, who then engaged in their own mobile chess battles.
Views, Vibes, and a Touch of Lawlessness
There’s a distinct sense of freedom on Amtrak, a feeling of stepping back into a simpler time. Boarding involved no ID checks, and while routines existed, passengers were largely free to roam. The slower pace also provided ample opportunity for “time killing.”
The train even accommodates smokers with designated “fresh air stops” or “smoke breaks” announced over the loudspeaker – a rare sight in today’s world.
The journey concluded with arrival at Chicago’s Union Station at approximately 4:20 p.m. local time, about 90 minutes behind schedule due to minor delays. But after almost two full days on the rails, what’s an extra hour and a half?
While acknowledging it’s neither the cheapest nor the fastest mode of transport, the experience has clearly captivated the traveler, who now plans to add several more long-haul Amtrak routes to their bucket list, embracing the opportunity to slow down and truly savor the journey.