Ocean Grill is a landmark that looks out to sea. Its fascinating architecture, ocean views, and fine food are well known. For Joey Replogle, a guiding force in the restaurant’s kitchen, there is also another facet: family tradition. “My grandfather moved his family down here in the 1960s,” Replogle says, “and he was always fascinated by this building.”
With good reason. The building itself had been constructed in 1941 by Waldo Sexton; its design elements of pecky cypress and mahogany, along with its eclectic collection of curiosities, reflect his colorful nature and special flair.
“He was definitely a treasure hunter,” says Replogle. “A lot of the things you see here he salvaged from places in Europe or from other places in Florida.” Stained glass windows, flamboyant chandeliers, Highwaymen paintings, nautical paraphernalia—there is much to intrigue visitors as they enjoy their meals. Even working there, Replogle says, “Once in a while I might see something I haven’t seen in a long time. And it feels like being on a ship because it slopes down toward the ocean.” He smiles. “You can’t build like this anymore.”
Replogle’s grandfather was not only fascinated by the building, he was well equipped to run a restaurant there, having had a steak house back in Wisconsin. “He brought some of his recipes and concepts here,” Replogle explains, citing the blue cheese spread, the Coquilles St. Jacques, and the roast duckling with orange-sherry sauce as his grandfather’s recipes. “They’re each barely altered, or not altered at all, in 60 years.” On the other hand, the crab cake recipe was changed by his mother, who hails from Maryland. “My mom talked my dad into changing the recipe to be more of a celebration of crab.”…