REVIEW: Hellenic Goes Bigger Than Ever, With Highs, Misses, and Promise

Hellenic is back again for a third time and literally bigger than ever. Nikol Zarbalas finally found a space triple the size of the last one in Coral Springs, which is a bit poetic considering the size of some portions.

What struck us immediately was how big and open it felt. Warm lighting and raised, exposed ceilings contrasted nicely with antique furniture, books, and mirrors adorning the walls. Quite a unique aesthetic. This was not intimate dining. The two of us were seated at one of the large round or rectangular tables. It almost felt like a family food hall, which I actually enjoyed.

We had quite an appetite, so we ordered too much. We started with the 3-dip sampler ($15.00), which lets you choose any 3 dips from about 10 options. The pita bread itself was nothing to write home about, but plentiful. The Melitzanosalata (roasted eggplant, herbs, and garlic) and Skordalia (creamy mashed potatoes with citrus and garlic) were both outstanding. There should be a capital “G” on Garlic in their description because it had a lot. The burst of citrus on both was refreshing. The pesto hummus was even better. Smooth, balanced, and nutty.

I would skip the Saganaki ($16.00) unless it improves. They forgot the flames; it definitely needed a bit of lemon and some goeyness that was lacking. The cheese’s bitterness was a bit overpowering without the right texture, and it fell flat.

The Halloumi Fries ($12.00) were addictive. They can be grilled, but we ordered the traditional panko crust, which was perfect. They gave us a side of proprietary Hellenic sauce of ketchup, mustard, vinegar, herbs, and a dash of honey. It’s on the sweeter side, so it may not be for everyone.

The Greek salad ($17.00 – $20.00), depending on your choice of protein. I wouldn’t order again. I definitely prefer my salads being premixed before they’re brought out, but the balsamic dressing was at least above average. The braised lamb (extra $8 upcharge) we chose was moist and slow-cooked, and the portion was generous. It was definitely worth the upcharge.

The Lamb Burger ($22.00) was a holdover, like many items from the restaurant’s previous iteration. A flavorful beefteki patty with melted cheese, onions, pickles, and Hellenic Sauce on a buttery brioche bun. Add another generous portion of braised lamb, and it’s easy to see why this was featured on the Food Network. It’s quite a mouthful. The Hellenic Fries would have been a tiny bit crispier, but it’s a pleasing flavor bomb of salty feta and oregano…

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