This January, Monona Drive’s Fat Jack’s Barbeque celebrated its 40th anniversary. Owners Mary and Dan Baryenbruch have been married for almost as long.
“We’ve seen the restaurant scene change a lot,” Mary Baryenbruch said. “When we started, it was just us and Smoky Jon’s No. 1 Barbecue doing most of the smoked food here in Madison, and it felt like it took a while for people to come around to it.
“They weren’t into it at first. People would see the redness of the smoke ring on the meat and think it was underdone.”…