Some say that Pittsburgh’s most iconic meal is a salad topped with French fries, but we say that the turkey Devonshire deserves its proper recognition as a real regional feast. In many ways, turkey Devonshire is another entry on the long list of old-school diner foods that are no longer popular, a smothered open-face sandwich that calls to mind a Kentuckian Hot Brown, but it’s not just another bowl of greasy-spoon glop. Legend has it that, in 1935, an Italian-American chef named Frank Blandi created the turkey Devonshire while working at Pittsburgh’s Stratford Club. He was inspired by the ritzy-sounding name of a nearby street on which big, beautiful houses stood: Devonshire.
The dish he created was a sandwich in name only, a massive concoction that needed utensils to even attempt eating, and it packed an enormous caloric punch that would fill even the hungriest belly. Reports say that the turkey Devonshire almost went extinct as the 21st century dawned, given that some of the diners that made it famous shuttered or stopped offering that particular dish. However, we think the rich, savory turkey Devonshire is worthy of a revival and should regain attention that it lost in the last half-century.
A turkey Devonshire starts with hearty toast on the bottom. Atop it are chunks or slices of roasted turkey. The whole dish is drowned in a sauce that may be cheese-based, although there are those who argue that it should be less of a Mornay and more of a Béchamel. Bacon and slices of fresh tomato adorn the top. Sometimes, a final layer of cheese is added and broiled to make an exquisitely crunchy golden crown finish.
How to enjoy turkey Devonshire at home
While some Pittsburgh exports, like the Primanti Bros sandwich, have achieved national fame, the turkey Devonshire is not often heard of outside the ‘Burgh. For those who are licking their chops at the thought of this delicious, OTT sandwich and wishing they could try it out, the good news is that it’s easy to make your own at home and serve it up for a family dinner. You’ll want to bring your heartiest appetite, but the actual ingredients aren’t too hard to source…