How Tony Gemignani changed the way SF eats pizza

In North Beach, there are corners that feel like they’ve always been there — even when they haven’t. Step into Tony’s Slice House and you can watch time stack up — literally — in the glass case containing ready-to-go pies.

“It was originally about three shelves,” Tony Gemignani said, gesturing at the display of what is now a tower of options tall enough to block the tattooed pizzaiolo behind it.

Since opening in August 2010, the pizza case at Tony’s has risen with The City’s appetite — and with Gemignani’s own ambitions. It’s common to find a line down Stockton Street for both the sit-down Tony’s Pizza Napoletana — which opened first in July 2009 — and the adjacent Slice House, even though Gemignani himself had to essentially introduce slice culture to San Francisco…

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