Long Beach’s ramen scene has exploded across the past several years, with some earning Michelin recognition—we see you, HiroNori—and others disappearing—Great Tiger Ramen came and went. And speaking of Great Tiger Ramen, that is where the tale of Hinata Ramen, East Long Beach’s hidden Japanese-meets-Chinese gem, begins.
After all, Hinata sits in the very space Great Tiger once occupied. Owner Paul Lee had high hopes for the space, but faced an intense reality after its head chef left: Great Tiger Ramen was that chef‘s ramen. Ramen, after all, is deeply coded to its creator with nuance.
“We didn’t feel comfortable continuing to tell the community we’re Great Tiger when we’re not,” Paul said. “It’s a source of pride for us that we are honest and transparent with the community, as well as ourselves. And that meant giving Chef Leo [Hengky] a space that is also his, highlighting his approach to ramen and food… We’re in this transition and, if I can be honest, we’re just really hoping the community gets its.”
With its smoke-tinged beauty of a broth filled with the collagen of everything from pig trotters to pig head, one would be hard-pressed to believe the community won’t get it. And it goes beyond the ramen (which includes the city’s best tsukemen). From stellar hibachi fried rice and gorgeous odes to Chef Leo’s Taiwanese heritage—including a spicy sesame chicken dish—Chef Leo’s food is wonderfully individualistic and unique in a world of ramen that feels all too ubiquitous and redundant.
Hinata Ramen is the story of an immigrant’s very American ambition
Chef Leo Hengky—joined by his brother Rico, whom you’ll find in the kitchen as well, making Hinata a full-on family affair—has been in the ramen and sushi business for over a decade. From his roots in Taiwan—splitting his heritage between Chinese and Japanese roots—the chef has found work at places ranging from Australia to Huntington Beach, where he and his brother owned a ramen shop for years before shuttering due to the pandemic…