All due respect to their highly sustainable role in the ecosystem and feeding the world, but sardines served as a dish on their own can be a significant challenge to your ability to enjoy eating as a concept. They are the seafoodiest seafood—as if the ocean itself was poured into a pot, reduced into a deeply intense stock, and served in tiny-fish form.
But at The Fishery in Pacific Beach, chef-partner Mike Reidy—who cooked under two-star Michelin chef Josiah Citrin at Melisse, then was chef de cuisine at Callie for a spell—is serving one of the best versions I’ve tasted in a long while. Two of them served whole, blistered, glistening with olive oil and salsa verde, served with sourdough from Wayfarer Bakery.
The restaurant is the offshoot of local seafood supplier, Pacific Shellfish, started by fifth-generation San Diego fisherman Judd Brown and his wife, Maryanne. Their idea was to connect local boats to local restaurants. They originally set up shop in Barrio Logan in 1978. The city imminent-domained his shop with the construction of the I-5. Full of 1960s protest spirit, he nearly chained himself to his space to save his dream…