It’s almost dinnertime at Kidilum. The lights are low, the beats are bumping and the tables are set up to face a brightly lit open kitchen.
“It should almost look like a show, like a theatre,” said Sammeer Raajpal, co-founder of the restaurant group Hungry Trio, which owns this South Indian spot and eight other concepts.
The sort of performance happening here is what diners want to experience if they’re paying $45 for crab curry, said Raajpal. But putting on a show is expensive. Everything is more expensive these days…