SOUTHERN MARYLAND — In Maryland, few debates start faster at a crab feast than one simple question: Old Bay or J.O.?
From backyard crab tables covered in newspaper to busy seafood counters across Southern Maryland, the conversation is as much about tradition as it is about taste. While both seasonings have deep Baltimore roots, local seafood businesses say customer preference, history and even loyalty often determine what ends up on the crabs.
The Old Bay Story
Old Bay seasoning was created in Baltimore in 1939 by Gustav Brunn, a German Jewish refugee who fled Nazi Germany and rebuilt his life in Maryland through the spice business.
Brunn and his family immigrated to Baltimore in 1938 after he was briefly imprisoned during Kristallnacht, a violent anti-Jewish pogrom. With experience in the spice trade, he initially found work in the local food industry, including a short stint with McCormick, but was let go, reportedly in part due to language barriers as he worked to learn English…