Tucked between the tree-lined streets in the Sylvan Park neighborhood of Nashville, Lion’s Share opens the doors to an English-inspired, neighborhood tavern. This opening marks the celebrated return of husband-and-wife duo Robbie Wilson and Emily Perry Wilson to Nashville after a decade-long hiatus. Known for his concept Bird Dog in Palo Alto and his recognition as a James Beard semifinalist for Best Chef: California, Robbie brings high ambition and technical mastery to the opening of Lion’s Share. The Wilsons envision a contemporary take on an inviting English tavern: the crackle of a wood-burning hearth, plush seating set for lounging, and a timeless aesthetic that is both historic and trendsetting.
The name, Lion’s Share, is a playful hat tip to British colloquialisms, but also signifies the restaurant’s ethos to “have it all” offering both approachability and luxury. “Lion’s Share is meant to be a sweet spot between comfort and adventure, a space where you can order antelope tartare or a hot dog,” says Robbie. The restaurant will focus heavily on hospitality service, with seasoned industry professionals offering informed, intuitive service for each guest. “I want to keep the menu exciting for my staff while making sure the restaurant becomes a favorite. If we’re labeled an occasion space, we’ve failed. We’re not trying to be impressive, we’re trying to nourish,” says Robbie. Lion’s Share’s location in Sylvan Park was another catalyst for this restaurant, as Robbie and his partners sought to open a restaurant in a fairly untouched part of the city. “The dining out culture in Nashville right now often prompts people to drive across town. We’re trying to encourage the opposite and invest where people already live,” he says.
Lion’s Share is uniquely outfitted to welcome anything from a quick stop at the bar to a six-hour dining experience in their private dining room. The space is lush and cozy, with organic elements that evoke an English drinking club in the Cotswolds. Dusky lighting casts shadow across cognac leather banquettes and tweed high-back chairs and plaid carpeting around the bar feel like a nod to the ’70s. Detail and atmosphere are everything, down to the carefully selected taxidermy along the walls, knick knacks lying across windowsills, and subtle English pub music humming in the background. “We wanted the space to hold a timeless design, rather than a perishable, modern look. Trends will come and go, so we are pursuing a look that’s enduring,” says Robbie. A portrait of Margaret Thatcher holding a dachshund feels like a crystal clear representation of the sophisticated yet lighthearted personality of the space.
A prominent fixture of the space, Lion’s Share’s seven-and-a-half-foot hearth, provides an aromatic accompaniment to the dining experience and a touchpoint for 70 percent of the menu. “We’re mostly using the embers for cooking. It’s a more nuanced tactic that isn’t incredibly obvious but enhances everything with a light touch of color and smoke,” says Robbie. Hearth-kissed favorites from the opening menu include pork belly vindaloo with labneh and cilantro, maitake mushroom with mole blanco, and pastured chicken with natural jus and salsa verde.
The raw bar at Lion’s Share will garner much attention and is a particular favorite for Robbie. “For our raw bar, we’re looking to find that perfect expression of a primal ingredient,” he says. Leaning into Japanese techniques and ingredients, the raw bar features options like big eye tuna with pecan miso and a kanpachi with a mandarin kosho, served with a mandarin you can personally squeeze at the table. Other dishes from the opening menu are antelope tartare with four roses vinegar and oysters with horseradish mignonette. Lion’s Share will utilize their aging room to hang the fish for five to seven days, nurturing the flavor for each piece of sashimi. “I like my oysters and sashimi like my wine—I want to taste the essence of the original element,” says Robbie. Each raw menu item will have small but studied enhancements to coax out the underlying sweet, spicy, and sour flavors.
Lion’s Share will also offer a unique take on happy hour with a “picky bits” menu promoting “duets,” or late-afternoon bites paired with a selected wine at an affordable price. This could range from some quick crudités with a crisp Grüner Veltliner to a baby flounder with an Albarino, all at the discretion of the beverage team…