STATEN ISLAND, N.Y. — Staten Island’s pizza scene stretches beyond the borough’s reputation for old-school traditionalism—but not in the way most people think.
The spark for this story? A pie at Pier 76 topped with dates, arugula, mozzarella and truffle oil—an unlikely combination where sweet meets brine and peppery greens meet an aromatic kerfuffle of truffle. It turned heads and, as it turns out, went viral.
Anthony Mentesana, owner of Casa Nino’s in Woodrow and Tutto Apposto in Richmond Valley, has been watching pizza evolve for more than four decades, dating back to his days working the dough at Ciccio’s in Brooklyn. He’s so passionate about the craft that he admits it still gets him emotional. And he’s clear on one thing: toppings tell the story of the pie.
“In the old-school pizzerias—then and even now, the ones that stay true—you had your staples,” he said. “Pepperoni, extra cheese, peppers, onions, sausage, meatballs. And anchovies. Anchovies were huge.”
That may surprise younger customers, who tend to recoil at the mention. But decades ago, anchovies weren’t fringe. Mentesana said they were foundational…