Portland has appeared plenty of New York Times travel features and dining roundups through the years.
But on Tuesday, the Gray Lady published its first-ever starred review of a Rose City restaurant.
Chief restaurant critic Tejal Rao was “delighted” by many of the “labor-intensive” dishes at The Paper Bridge, the 2-year-old Northern Vietnamese restaurant that also landed on The Oregonian’s guide to Portland’s best new restaurants in 2025…