We’re in the throes of Lunar New Year celebrations. Lion dancers are taking over libraries. Kids are squirreling away red envelopes. And tables are overflowing with food. So much food.
The holiday is full of symbolism, with certain dishes representing abundance, wealth and completeness. Whole fish, for example, is one of the most essential menu items; the Chinese word for it, yú, sounds like the word for abundance. Many households prepare two whole fish, intentionally not finishing them so there’s a surplus of abundance.
But you know what’s even more luxurious and celebratory than whole fish? Whole Dungeness crab!…